Many modern households have the main sewage line at ground level rendering basement bathrooms and laundry areas not have a way to drain its contents.
Necessary to install a sewage ejector pump to drain the water from bathrooms and laundry areas that are in the basement area.
You don’t need to pay a plumber to install a sewage ejector pump for you, you can do it yourself. All you need to do is buy the required parts either as a package or as separate parts.
The following are the requirements for installing a sewage ejector pump:
1. A vent
This vent serves two functions. First, it equalizes pressure such that while the water is being pumped out, air fills the empty spaces to avoid creating a vacuum. Secondly, it provides a conduit to remove sewer gasses from the household.
2. Sump Basin
This is the main tank in which the sewer water will be “stored” until it is ready to be pumped out (Usually when the tank is full).
3. 2-inch or 3-inch outlet
The outlet should be wide enough to allow water to be pumped out and to withstand the pressure created by the pump. Two or three inches are mostly used and advised.
4. Check valve
It placed between the sewage inlet and the sump basin and it is used to keep the sewage water from falling back into the household.
Before beginning the process of installing the Sewage ejector pump, the first thing you need to do is obtain a plumbing permit from the municipal county or city. This is because you will need to connect to the main sewer line of the town or the city to drain out your wastewater.
Here are simple steps that you can follow to install your own Sewage ejector pump in the basement:
Step 1: Mount the basin to the floor
You will need to mount the basin to the floor in order to attach the pump to the bottom of it. The basin should be secured with hard hold glue in order to prevent any leakage. Ensure that the pump is not wobbly or unstable as this can cause it to tip and fall over when the water hits it.
A sump basin normally operates by gravity, hence it needs to be lower than the ground to allow the wastewater to easily drain into the tank.
Step 2: Setting up Float Switches
The float switches should be set up on top of the pump and secured with heavy-duty glue. It should be placed in such a way as to have the trigger to pointing at the basin. However, care should be taken when fastening the float switch to allow it to have free range of movement.
The water should rise to reach the float switch causing the pump to turn on and suction the fluid through the check valve and into the drain. The vent outlet should be open to let as much water out as possible at a time.
The float must be adjusted such that the level of effluent in the tank does not rise higher than two inches below the lowest drain inlet.
Step 3: Piping and Test
Install the side pipeline (usually a 3-inch pipe) and ensure that it is securely placed. Check the toilet or the bathroom and let the water out to see if the pipe is fitted correctly and that it is not leaking. If it is leaking, additional adjustments should be done to the pipe to prevent it from leaking.
The vent size is different in every area as every city or town has its own code.
The discharge pump should also have the following installed together with it:
- Union-this could be a mechanical joint or a spate fitting.
- Check valve
- Shut off valve- a ball valve or a gate valve should be installed to make maintenance easy.
Step 4: Installing the Sump Cover
The cover should be installed and should be air and watertight to prevent any leakages or gas seepage into the household. Most manufactured sump tanks come with the instructions on how to install the cover. These instructions should be followed for seamless installation of the sump cover.
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